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WINES FROM DOMAINE JOBARD

François Jobard takes steps in the vineyard that few winemakers take the time, or the risk to do: after cordon training his Chardonnay (rare for white grapes, but Jobard thinks it straightens the vines and gives the grapes better acidity), he prunes to a mere six bunches per vine.

In the cellar natural yeasts only are used for fermentation, new oak is kept to a minimum, and the wines are neither filtered nor fined

Jobard’s Meursaults are often the last to hit the market, due to his meticulous and unhurried approach to vinification. They are also some of the last to reward, a result of the characteristically high acidity and pure, elegant style. With a little patience, however, the Meursaults from this domaine mature into some of the most explosive, most profoundly exotic wines you’ll taste. Critic Matt Kramer calls them “... extra-ordinary, so much so that they are a little baffling when young. The intensity is such that they don’t taste like other versions of the same vineyard, yet give them five years and they blossom where others wilt.” Jobard has parcels in choice premier vineyards: Poruzot, Genevrières, Charmes. But the village Meursault (En la Barre) shouldn’t be missed. It comes from two sources, the En la Barre vineyard behind Jobard’s house (which contains some of his oldest vines) and Les Tillets bordering Poruzots. Also watch for the most recent acquisition, a small parcel of Puligny-Montrachet Les Trézin.

“The Bourgogne Blanc is very pure with a butteriness in the nose, and more mineral overtones in the mouth. The wine provides a nice suggestion of Meursault.

The Meursault is more intense and buttery on the nose, and more intense with buttery lime fruit in the mouth, and a slight mineral overtone.

A few years ago, Jobard acquired a patch of Puligny, Le Trézin, a village site high up above the premiers crus La Garenne and Sous-Le-Puits.  is more mineral, generous, and forceful than the Meursault, but still shows plenty of finesse. This is a lovely Puligny.

Moving to the premiers crus, Jobard continues his policy of sparing use of new wood there, only about 15-20%, admirably allowing the fruit and the terroir to show through.

The Meursault-Blagny shows nice acidity and plenty of nutty, buttery fruit. There is less finesse here than in the Puligny, but more than in the village Meursault.

The Meursault-Poruzots is the most powerful of this group with a butter nose, and ripe, long, layered fruit. This is what Meursault is all about.

Then there is the Meursault-Genevrières, a wine of even greater purity and finesse with more mineral in the fruit and great depth. This wine can be drunk young, but it should age quite a long time.”
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